Big Menu, Small MenuĪ pure taste comparison of two sets of similar beverages overlooks other major differences between the two programs, of course. Instead we used the familiar schoolroom A through F scale. In reporting our evaluations, we decided against deploying the usual Coffee Review 100-point rating system as too recondite when applied to what are essentially coffee-powered versions of fountain beverages. Our assumption was that by attentively sampling the four we could get a general idea of how the programs generally match up from a sensory perspective. (Note that Starbucks retains the traditional “caffè” in “caffè latte” and “caffè mocha,” whereas McDonald’s reflects current vernacular by shortening the names to “latte” and “mocha.”) We bought the modest, twelve-ounce size of each of the four beverages (“tall” at Starbucks, “small” at McDonald’s). Our choices: A cappuccino, caffè latte, caffè mocha (espresso, frothed milk and chocolate syrup) and caramel latte. We sampled four different hot, espresso-based beverages in two McDonald’s Northern California locations offering the new McCafé menu, and the analogous four beverages at two nearby Starbucks locations. Hence our McDonald’s/Starbucks espresso beverage taste test: one skirmish observed in the Great War. Finally, coffee is buried in the drink somewhere, and its character and quality does have an impact on how much pleasure we take in all of the milk and the syrups. Frothed milk can be frothed in different ways, some syrups are better than other syrups, and the drinks can be assembled differently. The battle front that seems to have escaped much comment so far, however, is how the beverages themselves stack up. The business press calls winners on the basis of the bottom line, and generally appears to be of the opinion that the Arches will wreak considerable havoc on the Mermaid.
McDonald’s is rolling out its McCafé line of espresso-based (OK, milk-based) beverages with a national advertising assault of old-fashioned scale and intensity, while Starbucks, the Chain that Brought the Caffè Latte to Main Street (plus strip malls, high-rise lobbies, et al) has retaliated with full-page ads in the The New York Times, ads of the reasonable-sounding, text-heavy type that non-profit organizations run to set the record straight on political, social and economic issues of great importance to the Republic. The latest front in what the business press likes to call the Coffee Wars is clearly more a battle about frothed milk, whipped cream and syrup than about coffee.
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